In Portugal, Taking a Dive Into Sardines

For a more decadent take on the classic bread and fish dish, the sandwich shop A Sandeira pairs the tinned delicacies with a perfect red pepper spread, all served on mismatched vintage china from a nearby hardware store. Nearby, the bar Aduela, located on Rua das Oliveiras, also serves the most classic take: sardines on toast with fresh tomatoes. Especially perfect for people looking to spend very little in a trendy spot, it’s a great place to kick off a sardine tour.

There is, possibly, a small feud between those who serve the sardines fresh and those who serve them canned, according to the owner of Loja das Conservas, who told me darkly that “no one knows” why the finer restaurants won’t serve the town’s famous tinned offering. Visitors looking to try the fish fresh have plenty of options, including the excellent Meia-Nau, where they come grilled to perfection. The modern restaurant, located on the chic Travessa de Cedofeita, requires reservations for dinner, but lunch is more open to visitors without a plan. If you happen to ask about the fresh-versus-canned debate, be sure to mention Loja — Meia-Nau’s owner, it turns out, is the son of the shop’s founder. In Porto, after all, sardines are a family business.

Article source: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/07/13/travel/portugal-sardine-factory-tour.html